Dispatch 12: You seek you find 5/04/09
Uncertainty plays a major role in every life. What direction do you head in? How do you proceed when there is no set path? Who and what are we accountable for? What will happen if you take a risk?
In this life and at this present moment…
Throughout my twenties,this being my last year of them, I’ve had to ask and answer those questions many times,in the mountains, in business and in life. Somehow they never produce a one dimensional answer. Sometimes the answer just continues to unfold daily…like here.
We have meandered a great distance to solve the one single problem that has luckily not generated much intellectual debate, much speculation or delusions of granduer. That can lead to serious disappointment. There can be so much satisfaction in black and white. It took Josh, Jon and me fifteen days to get to this point and just as we thought we had solved our very static riddle, the virtue patience took hold in the midst of a storm and we steadfastly returned again the next day to murder the obvious. Now we know something…something more incredible than a burst of excitement, rarer than a perfect day and more satisfying than success…the root of possibility.
We know now there is a gully that leads us to the East ridge of 23,390′ Baruntse and out onto the Northeast face!
Not exactly the theory of relativity or the cure for cancer, but to find it one year after hoping something would be somewhere in this vicinity,10 months of training in a gym, 15 days of sweat,dodging rocks and straining ankles across a boulderfield full of miles of desperate footsteps…it feels pretty damn satisfying. We came here, like we go to most mountains based on a photo. No matter what,we propose a line and hope that conditions will be safe enough to pursue it. If not, we come with enough enthusiasm and skill to find something else fun to do. That’s the beauty of mountains and great partners, the line is what you make of it. The summit just the middle of the destination.
The scale of this years climb had many holes that could have shut us down before even trying. Cost,time away from our jobs and family (Josh and I miss our wives!),then the more practical mountain based issues; it is 7000M tall, has rockfall, icefall, and the effects of receding glaciers amidst global warming. With a route that begins on one side of the mountain and ends on another one,you’re asking for a lot of the present. But you have to have something to drive you,eh? All that uncertainty and committent must equal something.
When you consider that the route begins on unexplored terrain,crosses the standard route for about a 1/4 of it’s length and then drops on skis into territory that has one recorded ascent…let’s just say that the options for discourse with experienced travellers of this terrain was not an option. Nor did we care. It would smell taste and envelop us just the same, we bought our plane tickets and set foot in Nepal.
Gazing at the broken and steep rock and snow filled gully that will give us access to begin this experience is other worldly yet very familiar. The terrain reminds me so much of a peak I’ve guided so many times near Telluride. Funny how it makes me happy to enter virgin terrain through a completely familiar trough. Albeit not my favorite one,but the old hand of experience is the best guide to safety and confiding in the mountain.
That very thought is comforting. In ten years of international expeditions, 12 in climbing, the mountains have began to present more familiar scenarios and spaces. Every now and then it all adds up. It’s only possible by consistently showing up and trying. We will begin in a few days when our multiple abrasions, taxed muscles and our gear can make the three hour climb still from here to the base of the route for the last time. There will still be a veneer of newness on every molecule of route we encounter, only our eyes have grazed it. The mountains are dynamic and active,the photo we had..only a tiny snapshot of history, a nugget of inspiration. We look forward to sharing our own with you.
For photos of the last few days and the next few before we begin this epic endeavor,please check in daily at www.skithehimalayas.com While we’ve been sussing it out, I’ve been uploading the process through photos. We’ll do the same while on the mountain, mixed with the occassional audio dispatch too.
Live the dream,
Ben Clark
Posted via email from skithehimalayas’s posterous
68UgYK comment3 ,
Hi! I like your srticle and I would like very much to read some more information on this issue. Will you post some more?
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